I spent four nights in Bologna while on a month-long trip to Italy. As this was my third trip to Italy, I was seeking places that often get overlooked for more famous spots like Florence or Milan. Something about the region of Emilia Romagna caught my attention—maybe the food, maybe the idea of a less touristy place perfect for slow travellers—and I decided to see it for myself.
If you’re wondering, is Bologna worth visiting, this post will help you decide.
I’ll share what I liked, what I didn’t, and who I think will enjoy the city most. This is an honest take based on my own slow travel experience.
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Why Bologna Might Be Worth Adding to Your Itinerary
It’s Less Crowded Than the Big Names—But Don’t Expect a Sleepy Hill Town
After spending a few nights in Reggio Emilia, a town less than 30 minutes away, and visiting Modena and Parma, arriving in Bologna felt like stepping back into a much larger, livelier world.
Compared to those smaller cities, Bologna is undeniably busier, grittier, and more urban.
But when you compare it to major tourist destinations like Rome, Florence, Venice, Milan, or even Verona, it’s far less overwhelmed by crowds.
There were no shoulder-to-shoulder tour groups sweeping through piazzas. No long queues to enter every church or gallery. I could walk through the historic center at a relaxed pace without constantly navigating around people.
Bologna still feels like it functions for the people who live there.
That said, it’s important to set expectations. Bologna is not a charming hill town in Tuscany like Pienza or Montepulciano. It has neither the postcard perfection nor the hushed quiet of those smaller villages.
It’s a working city—busy, somewhat worn in places, and refreshingly unconcerned with presenting itself as a tourist showpiece. I saw people commuting, shopping for groceries, and going about weekday life.
The Food Isn’t Overhyped—It’s Just Really Good
Bologna is known as “La Grassa,” or “the fat one,” and it earns that title honestly.
Even as a vegetarian, I ate very well. I skipped the famous tagliatelle al ragù and mortadella, of course, but that didn’t take anything away from the experience.
There were plenty of simple, flavourful dishes I could enjoy—like tortelloni stuffed with ricotta and herbs, fresh bread, roasted vegetables, and regional cheeses.
I stuck to casual places—nothing pre-booked. Just spots that looked busy with locals and had a short, seasonal menu.
I especially loved the sensory-overloaded markets, although they were crowded with people, the energy was infectious to walk around.
The Porticoes Are More Than Just Beautiful—They’re Built for Everyday Life
One of the most distinctive features of Bologna is its porticoes—those covered walkways that seem to guide you gently through the city.
They stretch for over 62 km in total, with about 42 km winding through the historic center alone.
I hadn’t realized before arriving just how integral they are—not only to the city’s architecture, but to its atmosphere.
I visited in October, when rain was frequent. Thanks to the porticoes, I rarely needed an umbrella. I could walk for miles, dry and unhurried, taking in the shifting tones of the terracotta buildings and the quiet activity around me.
Some of the porticoes are showing their age, while others are absolutely beautiful.
A Well-Connected Home Base for Day Trips
One of the things I came to appreciate about Bologna is how easily it connects to other cities in the region.
With its central location and excellent train service, it’s an ideal base if you want to explore more of Emilia-Romagna without packing and unpacking every few days.
I had just come from Reggio Emilia, where I stayed for several nights and used it as a jumping-off point to visit Parma and Modena.
If you’re considering where to go, each of these nearby cities I visited and recommend offers something distinct:
- Parma is known for its refined elegance, and, of course, its world-famous cheese and ham—even if you don’t eat meat, the food culture alone is worth exploring.
- Modena blends charm and innovation, home to traditional balsamic vinegar producers and modern design (not to mention Ferrari for the car enthusiasts).
- Reggio Emilia feels more local and less touristy, offering a slower pace and a strong sense of community—ideal if you’re looking to observe Italian daily life.
- Ravenna, slightly farther away, rewards the journey with its inspiring early Christian mosaics and quiet, walkable streets steeped in history.
What Bologna Might Not Offer—Depending on What You’re Looking For
It Doesn’t Have the “Wow” Factor Some Cities Offer
Bologna doesn’t dazzle at first glance. There’s no Colosseum like in Rome, no winding canals like in Venice, no Renaissance grandeur on every corner like in Florence.
You won’t find seaside views of the Cinque Terre or postcard-perfect piazzas like those in Orvieto. The beauty here is more lived-in and often hidden in the details.
If it’s your first trip to Italy and you’re hoping for jaw-dropping landmarks and sweeping vistas, Bologna might feel underwhelming.
Grimy Corners and Graffiti
There were moments when I found myself missing the polish and elegance of a city like Turin, which feels more refined. Bologna, in contrast, can feel a little rough around the edges.
I often passed streets with heavy graffiti—not artful murals, but hastily sprayed tags—and some corners felt neglected.
It’s a university town, so there are students everywhere—studying in cafés, crowding into bars, filling up cheap eateries.
Around the university area, especially, buildings were worn, and the energy was more student-centred: vibrant but not particularly elegant.
That affordability and youthfulness give Bologna its grit—but also mean it lacks the timeless sophistication found in places like Turin or Milan.
A Modest Museum Scene
For a city of its size, I expected more from Bologna’s cultural institutions.
There are certainly a few interesting spots—like the Collezioni Comunali d’Arte Museo Civico, which features sculptures in a beautiful historic building—but overall, I didn’t feel especially drawn to the museums here.
There was no standout art collection or gallery that demanded attention, no equivalent of Florence’s Uffizi or Rome’s Galleria Borghese.
As someone who enjoys both large and lesser-known museums, I was surprised to find that very few made it onto my itinerary.
Who I Think Bologna Is Right For, And Who Might Want to Skip It (For Now)
Bologna struck me as the kind of place that quietly rewards those who’ve already seen Italy’s big-name cities and are now looking for something more grounded.
If you’ve already been to Rome, Florence, Venice, or Milan, and you’re curious about how Italians live when they’re not performing for tourists, Bologna might be a good fit.
It’s ideal for food lovers—the kind who don’t need to book a Michelin-starred restaurant to eat well. Even the most casual spots serve generous, carefully made dishes that reflect the region’s culinary pride.
This is a place for slow travellers—those who enjoy walking without a list, pausing at cafés, and taking time to observe. There’s enough city energy to keep it interesting for days, but not so much that it becomes overwhelming.
Bologna is also a good match for those who appreciate an urban destination, which is a lot less frantic.
Photographers will be particularly inspired—from the streets, architecture, tower views and everyday life of those who call Bologna home.
Daily life hums around you—and it feels authentic rather than curated.
I also didn’t find this city particularly romantic. Rather, it’s a cool, liveable city with a unique vibe.
If luxury and elegance are high on your list—whether in accommodations, surroundings, or atmosphere—you may find Bologna lacking.
Final Thoughts
I’m glad I spent time in Bologna and do recommend seeing it at least once—but for me, it’s not a city I feel drawn to return to.
If you’re planning a trip to Italy and want help crafting an itinerary that suits your travel style, I offer bespoke trip planning services—let’s plan something beautiful together.
